Warsaw, the rest

Our second day in Warsaw led us to the old Jewish ghetto, where we first ate a giant vegetarian lunch of delicious vegetables and soy products. In WWII, the Warsaw Jews were starving to death in a ghetto when they decided to stage a fight against the occupying nazi forces. The sources all indicate that they knew they had no hope of winning and simply looked for an honorable way to die.

Later that day, we visited both the Jewish cemetery, absolutely full of graves, including one by the inventor of Esperanto, and the oldest cemetery in Poland, where over a million people have been buried. It was an impactful day.

Needing a lighter evening, the lovely Dorota (a friend a few times removed, and now just a friend) took us to visit a park, where we watched peacocks climb over statues and strut, and then to a library that is absolutely covered in greenery. It was really astounding, you'll have to see the pictures when I put them up.

Day three was spent again wandering the old town, and again getting rained on. It seems that old towns are destined to be rainy for us. Nevertheless, it was a good day. The old town is just astoundingly beautiful. I also enjoyed a nice sushi lunch. In the evening we crossed the river with Dorota and her friend Magda to head to the Praga artists' district, where we drank designer beers and sat under the now happily rain-free sky.

Our last morning in Warsaw was spent at the museum of the Warsaw Uprising. In this, the citizens and home army of Warsaw staged one last-ditch attempt to defeat the nazis in their city. Meanwhile, the Red Army watched from across the river. The city was utterly destroyed, thousands and thousands died, and finally, when the uprising was defeated, the entire civilian population was deported from the city. The museum was very... visceral. There was a large wall that had a pumping heart beat, and the sounds of bombing and national songs also swelled from it. I left the museum feeling drained and weary, which is, I suppose, how one should feel after visiting such a place.

Warsaw though! What a wonder it was. Such a faithfully restored old town, a towering monument to Stalin, parks and monuments around every corner. I loved it. Don't let anyone tell you it's less than amazing.